Sabarimala – The abode of Lord Ayyappa

Sabarimala – The abode of Lord Ayyappa

Of all pilgrim centers of south India, Sabarimala is one with a lot unique features. The following is an attempt to describe some of them.

There is more than one version among historians regarding the origin of this temple. Some of them say that it was previously a Buddhist shrine and with the disappearance of Buddhism from Kerala, this shrine would have become a Hindu temple along with its devotees. The recital of the word “Saranam” is quoted as proof. “Buddham saranam gatchami” (as the prayer of Buddhists goes) is also a possible example. The absence of casteism in this temple (once prevalent in Kerala) is yet another support to this school of thought.

One of the most popular mythologies is that Ayyappa was born with the merger of Lord Vishnu and Siva, and the child was adopted by the king of Pandalam dynasty. But later the queen started to hate the child. One day she faked ill and demanded to get milk of a tigress as a cure for her illness. The boy, courageous and helpful as he was, took to the forest. Later he came back with a herd of tigresses to be milked! King, queen and his courtiers got dump found by this sight. Realizing the godly powers of the little boy they begged him pardon. The king built a temple at the top of a hill and got boy settled there as per his wish. There the boy grew and became a great saint, and people flocked to the hill seeking his blessings.

Pure story as it seems, might have some facts associated with it. There are many rituals in this temple those connect it with the palace of Pandalam. The ornaments of Sabarimala temple (Thiru-abharanam) is kept in a temple at Koyickal belonging to the Pandalam dynasty. Prior to the pilgrimage season there is a procession in which these ornaments are ceremoniously taken to the temple. After the festivals the same is safely returned to the palace. These ceremonies are accompanied with numerous rituals existing for long time. In which the members of Pandalam dynasty have many roles.

There fore it also can be assumed that a member of the pandalam dynasty would have become a monk (accepting deeksha as per Hindu tradition), and the king would have paid occasional visits to his ashram along with royal family members. This ritual would Have become a ceremony and more and more people would have joined the rank. In the present year the expected no. of pilgrims to this shrine is around fifty million.

Sabarimala is a hill temple situated in the dense forests of the western-ghats. It is about nine hundred and fifty meters above sea-level; This temple comes in the Pathanamthitta district of the Kerala state. It is administered by the Travancore Devaswam Board. The revenue brought by this temple to the Devaswam Board’s kitty is enormous.

Vehicular traffic is possible only up to Pamba and pilgrims have to trek about fifteen kilometers by foot. The path crisscrosses through dense forests of the hilly terrain. Pilgrims travel in small groups of ten to fifteen persons. Dense forests give them shade all the way. Some of them by tradition take rice etc. along with, cook their own food and share with all members of the groups

As in the case of an ordinary temple visit, one cannot simply start the pilgrimage to this hilly abode. They have to observe penance for a certain period. The start of the month of “Vrichika” (The month with sun sign scorpion-which coincides with the month of November 17th in 2006) is the beginning of the pilgrimage season. One who determines to go for pilgrimage, wakes up early morning take bath, visits the nearby temple. There after prayer he wears a beaded lace (beads of this lace are made from carved stems of thulasi- plant.(oscimum sanctum). After this that person is known as “swami” (saint). This swami wears black dress. He sticks to celibacy, avoids non vegetarian food, smoking and consumption of alcohol. He does not shave and let the beard grow.

Public treat a swami with special consideration and the swami is compelled by the circumstances to lead a pious sort of life, during the period of penance. These types of observations are known as “vrutha”. There are many instances, where these temporary “sainthood” turn out to be a habit. Some antisocial elements have got refined and turned to be good citizens by the observation of the vrutha.

The journey to the hills is done in groups, generally five to ten people assemble in the house of one (generally in the house of a first time visitor to the hills), some poojas are performed in a specially made stage( made of the pseudo stem of banana plants and decorated with tender leaf lets of coconut trees. Such stages are known as pandals).
The senior most among them recites holy words from holy books and performs some rituals. At the end of the poojas a cotton bag separated in to two is put on to the head first on the youngest swami.

The atmosphere gets filled with calls “Swamiye....saranam Ayyappa...” from all who have assembled there. Generally neighbors assemble on the occasion to bless the swamis, and they give some money- to be deposited in the temple coffers- as their offering.

The cotton bag with two pockets tied in the middle is known as “iru mudi kettu” which is filled with essential items like rice. Peanuts. dhal. Sesame seeds etc. This bag is a must for a swami, and those without the bag on their head are not admitted to the temple compound. The swamis recite the word “Swamiye......saranam Ayyappa...... all through their way. There are many sacred locations in the vicinity of Sabarimala. River Pampa is considered very holy and a bath in that river is one of the most important rituals in the pilgrimage.

One of the unique features of this hill is the existence of the mosque of “Vavar swami” (a Muslim saint). In Sabarimala it is ritual that all pilgrims should pay visit to the Vavar’s shrine also. Malikappuram, Appachimedu, Saram kuthiyal Ponnambala medu, Pathinettam padi etc. are all holy locations here. The devotees cherish the memories in their minds long after their return. When the next pilgrimage season comes they long to see those location again, they just go to the nearby temple and wear the beaded lace to be a swami again!

Pathinettam padi(eughteenth step) is a pathway with eighteen steps which leads to the temple. These steps are believed to represent the eighteen steps those can lift a human being to the level of a saint. It is therefore, a pilgrim to Sabarimala is called a swami. Devotees take in their hands coconuts filled with ghee and break them while climbing the steps. It is believed that obstacles on their way also will break likewise.

The season ends with “Makara vilakku” which falls in the month of January. This day attract the maximum number of devotees. On that night there appears some holy signals as a kite flies around the flag pole of the temple and a light (Makara jyothi) appears on a tall hill nearby. Devotees’ chant the magic word ‘Swamiye..... saranam Ayyappa.....” reach in its feverish pitch. That occasion is an experience for any devotee to remember all through his life.

Mandalakalam as the Sabarimala pilgrimage season is called is here! go the nearby temple wear beaded necklace and just become a swami. Observe the vrutha to gain the status of a saint. “Thathvam asi” as written boldly in front of this temple, means- the devotee and the god are one and the same. Of all the unique features described above “Thathvam asi” is most significant. Here a devotee is raised to the same level of the god, he is seeking. And nothing less than that.

Don’ts of Sabarimala temple.

1. No entry without the Irumudi kettu
2. Women between age group 10 and 50 not admitted.(they are also denied to be present at the time of the ceremonial procession at Pampa.)
3. Use of plastic and polythene materials not allowed.
4. Smoking and chewing pan are prohibited.
5. Polluting the holy river Pampa strictly prohibited.
6. Any acts that would damage the forest cover prohibited.
7. Only bamboo arrows alone used in the “saramkuthiyal
8. Do not break coconuts on the “Pathinettampadi”
9. Do not use oil or soap when taking bath at “Bhasmakulam”

Time Chart When The Shrine Remains Open.

1 Opening of the door for devotees------------------- 4 Am
2 Closing after the uttcha pooja------------------------ 1-30 Pm
3 Opening of the door for evening pooja------------- 5-30 Pm
4 Closing of the door for night--------------------------11 Pm

Important events in the temple during this season.

1 Mandala pooja----------------------------------------------- 16-11-2006 to 27-12-2006
2 Makara Vilakku -------------------------------------------- 30-12-2006
3 Kumbha masa pooja---------------------------------------- 14-01-2007
4 Meena masa pooja ------------------------------------------ 12-2-2007
5 Utsavam(festival) ------------------------------------------- 22-3-2007 to 1-4-2007
6 Kodiyettu( flag hoisting) ----------------------------------- 23-3-2007
7 Arattu(procession) ------------------------------------------- 1-4-2007
8 Vishu celebration -------------------------------------------- 14-4-2007
9 Edava masa pooja ------------------------------------------- 14-5-2007 to 19-5-2007
10 Prathishta dinam.--------------------------------------------- 26-5-2007 to 27-5-2007
11 Midhuna masa pooja ---------------------------------------- 15-6-2007 to 20-6-2007
12 Karkidaka pooja --------------------------------------------- 16-7-2007 to 21-7-2007
13 Chinga masa pooja ------------------------------------------ 16-8-2007 to 21-8-2007
14 Thiruvona pooja -------------------------------------------- 25-8-2007 to 29-8-2007
15 Kanni masa pooja -------------------------------------------- 16-9-2007 to 21-9-2007
16 Thula masa pooja ------------------------------------------ 17-10-2007 to 22-10-2007
17 Sree Chithira Attavisesham ------------------------------ 07-11-2007 to 08-11-2007

Important Vazhipadus at Sabarimala

Padi Pooja: Rs 25,000/- ( Charges for Pooja materials extra)

( During festival season of Mandalam Makaravilakku, this pooja is not conducted )

For booking of the guest houses of Forest Department Contact Sannidhanam Forest IB ph: 202074 / 202075, Room Rs 300 per day.

Field Director, Project Tiger, Kottayam, kerala Ph: 0481 2565940.

Sannidhanam KSEB IB ph: 202024, 3 Rooms ( Rs 300 per day), Dormitary for Rs 50 per person.

Sabarimala Telephone Numbers - code - 04735

Pampa Telephone Numbers - code - 04735

Accomodation Facilities in Sabarimala

For Booking Accomodation at Sabarimala Ph: 04735 202049

Devaswom Commissioner Travancore Devaswom Board, Nanthankod, Thiruvananthapuram - 3, Ph 0471 2316963, 2317983.

Devaswom Board Guest House and Annexe having 24 rooms and Sabarinivas II rooms are set apart for VVIP'S.

Nearest railway station to Sabarimala is Chengannur about 100 Kilometers. Nedumpassery(Cochin International airport and Trivandrum international airport are the nearest airports.

Distances to Sabarimala

Distance to Pamba from Various Places

Travel Options

Route Map to Sabarimala

Author: Sasi Kumar

Source: Naturemagics.com - website on Kerala Tourism

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